I Love Touring Italy - Latium West Of Rome

If you are looking for a European tourist destination,
consider the Latium region of central western Italy on the
Tyrrhenian Sea. Latium, also known as Laszio, is the region
that includes Italy’s capital Rome, the Eternal City.
Because there are so many articles describing the multiple
pleasures of Rome, we are going to write about the
lesser-known attractions of Latium. This article focuses on
Latium west of Rome. A companion article describes Latium
east of Rome.

We’ll start our tour at Cerveteri about 25 miles (40
kilometers) northwest of Rome. We’ll head along the
sea northwest past Rome’s port, Civitvecchia, and
stop at Tarquinia. Then we’ll travel inland
(northeast) to Tuscania, Viterbo, Bagnaia, and then
southeast to the village of Caprarola. We then head almost
directly north to finish our tour at Bomarzo not far from
the Umbrian border. (It might be a bit shorter to go from
Bagnaia to Bomarzo and then to Caprarola but as you will
see, we have our reasons for following the first
itinerary.) Before we start this tour we will introduce a
onetime major player, the Etruscans.

The Etruscans were a people who dominated large parts of
Italy including Latium from an unknown prehistoric period
up until the Roman Empire. We don’t know much about
their origins, language, culture, or their way of life.
Much of what we do know about this once powerful people can
be seen on our tours of Latium. By the way, one of the most
famous books about the Etruscans, Sketches of Etruscan
Places and other Italian Essays (1932), was written by the
British Author D. H. Lawrence, better known for another
work, Lady Chatterly’s Lover.

Cerveteri, population about thirty thousand, was once the
Etruscan city of Caere. UNESCO has classified Cerveteri as
a World Heritage Site because of its Etruscan tombs. It is
the largest ancient necropolis in the Mediterranean area.
These tombs, and there are over a thousand of them, date
from the Ninth Century B.C. to the Third Century B. C.
Other local sights worth seeing include the Rocca castle,
the Church of Santa Maria Maggiore and the Sixteenth
Century Palazzo Ruspoli, not to be confused with a Palace
of the same name in Florence. The nearby burg of Ceri is at
the top of a fortified plateau. Its main attraction is the
Romanesque Church of the Madonna of Ceri, built on a site
originally dedicated to the worship of the goddess Vesta.
In 1980 during renovations, Twelfth Century frescos of
Biblical scenes were uncovered.

Tarquinia, population about sixteen thousand, is the site
of about six thousand Etruscan tombs, some of which are
decorated by wall paintings. The National Museum housed in
the Fifteenth Century Palazzo Vitelleschi is known for its
archeological contents. Tarquinia is home to a cathedral,
several churches including two from the Twelfth Century
(San Martino and St. John the Baptist), the Palazzo dei
Priori, and several medieval towers.

Tuscania, population somewhat under eight thousand, was
founded almost three thousand years ago but the area itself
has been populated for perhaps eight or ten thousand years.
Unfortunately its medieval city walls were largely
destroyed in 1971 earthquake but they have been repaired
and the interior is nicely landscaped. Like its neighbors,
Tuscania is the site of many Etruscan tombs including the
“Tomb of the Queen”, a series of labryinths
with about thirty tunnels. If you are like me, you prefer
seeing other sights. Tuscania will not disappoint you. For
example, there are several churches of great architectural
interest and palaces aplenty. And you can visit the
National Archeological Museum, but many of the displays are
tomb-related.

Viterbo was once the favorite residence of the popes. Its
historic old center is among the best preserved towns of
central Italy. Make sure to see the Palazzo dei Papi (Papal
Palace) and the Romanesque Cathedral of San Lorenzo, built
by the Lombards over an Etruscan Temple dedicated to
Hercules. This building also served as a Papal residence.
Pope John XXI died here in 1277 when the ceiling collapsed
as he was sleeping. The Plaza di San Lorenzo contains
several other buildings of interest. The medieval district
of San Pellegrino is quite well preserved and definitely
worth visiting. Viterbo boasts a spa with a huge limestone
pool of very hot water. Its volcanic mud is highly
recommended for those who like that sort of thing. I am
told that the Enoteca La Torre has an extensive wine list.
The Tre Re restaurant has been a fixture of Viterbo’s
old town since 1622.

The nearby village of Bagnaia was the personal fiefdom of
the bishops of Viterbo for centuries. It is best known for
its magnificent Sixteenth Century water gardens, Villa
Lante. There are two sets of buildings, built for two
bishops, one of whom was known for living simply.
Highlights include a Moorish fountain, a boxtree maze, and
two casinos.

The nearby village of Caprarola is the site of the
Sixteenth Century Farnese Palace. This Palace was built for
Cardinal Alessandro II Farnese, nephew of Pope Paul III,
within ten years of the Villa Lante. The two sites were
built by the same architect, but in a very different style.
Here you go to see the palace, although its park is nothing
to sneer at. In fact, in many parts of the world, the
Farnese Palace park would merit a visit on its own. Our
suggestion, see the Villa Lante and the Farnese Palace and
compare. One thing is certain, the Sixteenth Century
Italian upper class sure knew how to live.

You probably haven’t seen anything like Bomarzo. The
village’s main attraction is yet another Sixteenth
Century garden, alternately known as Bosco Sacro (Sacred
Grove) and Bosco di Mostri (Monster’s Grove). It was
built by a hunchbacked patron of the arts to honor his
deceased wife. Some say that she died of heart failure
after seeing the park. For centuries this park was
neglected but now has been restored. The dozens of monster
statues including Hanging House, the Dragon, the Ogre, and
the Etruscan Bench with its inscription "You who travel the
world, in search of great and beautiful wonders, come here,
where there are horrible faces, elephants, lions, bear and
dragons" seem strewn about aimlessly. This is probably as
good a place as any to end your tour of western Latium.

What about food? Latium cuisine is one of abundance,
perhaps in part because of the volcanic soil. The best cuts
of meat were reserved for the rich and the poor had to make
do with the rest, including feet, heart, kidneys, tongue,
and tripe. Let’s not forget the pasta, said to be
among the best in Italy. Fettuccine Alfredo comes from this
region. Let’s suggest a sample menu, one of many.
Start with Carciofi alla Guidea (Deep fried Artichokes).
Then try Porchetta (Roast Suckling Pig). For dessert
indulge yourself with Ciambella (Pastry with Sweetened
Grapes and Carmelized Chestnuts). Be sure to increase your
dining pleasure by including local wines with your meal.

We’ll conclude this article with a quick look at
Latium wine. More than four out of five bottles produced
here are white. There are twenty five DOC wines. DOC stands
for Denominazione di Origine Controllata, which may be
translated as Denomination of Controlled Origin, presumably
a high-quality wine, twenty of them white. However, only
about 6% of Latium wine is so classified. Frankly, the
region is not known for its wine. It once was; in the
distant past Falernum, a Latium red was the hit of Ancient
Rome. Who knows, perhaps one day the region will regain its
former glory when it comes to wine. In the meantime, there
is lots to see and lots to eat. And plenty of fine Italian
wines are available. North of Latium is Umbria, and north
of Umbria is Tuscany. Cantina Colacicchi’s Torre
Ercolana is a Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot blend from Latium
that comes highly recommended but I have yet to taste it.

---

Levi Reiss has authored or co-authored ten books on
computers and the Internet, but he prefers drinking fine
Italian or other wine, accompanied by the right foods and
people. He knows about dieting but now eats and drinks what
he wants, in moderation. He teaches classes in computers at
an Ontario French-language community college. His new wine,
diet, health, and nutrition website
http://www.wineinyourdiet.com links to his other sites.

---

More Travel Articles


The Accidental Illustrator Of Sherlock Holmes
A resume of the career of Sidney Paget. Who became the definitive illustrator of the Sherlock Holmes stories by chance.

What Cruise Passengers Must Know About Duty-Free Shopping Onboard Ship!
Cruise ships offer an array of charming little shipboard boutiques that advertise duty-free delights ... but are these really good deals? And what on earth is "duty" anyway? Find out about duty-free shopping and how to get the best buys onboard ship (and when to jump ship).

California's historic lodgings offer unique getaways
California's historic lodgings offer a unique getaways, and a little bit of Golden State history as well.

I Love Touring Italy - Latium East Of Rome
I love touring Italy so much that I am doing a series on both the well known and the rarely visited tourist attractions of Italy's twenty regions. This article explores sights in the Latium region of central western Italy including some history, local food, and Latium wine. Please join me on this tour of Latium east of Rome.

Brain Fitness Vacations for Baby Boomers: Tips for Staying Sharp
Looking for new and stimulating travel ideas? Well, let us explain what a "Brain Fitness Vacation" is: "A brain fitness vacation is like a regular vacation, only you attend events, do exercises, and arrange for experiences that address the aspects of good brain health: physical exercise, mental exercise, good nutrition, and stress management.

---

CategoryTravelArticles